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Talking Tacos and Edible Insects with Juan Pablo and Nicholas - Episode #42

My final interview with Mr. Juan Pablo Ballesteros. I had the opportunity to try some of the food prepared at Limosneros Restaurant. This included tacos with Crayrish and Cocopaches (an insect). It may might sound creepy or gross but it isn't. The Cocopaches tasted great and well they do look a bit scary but no more scary than the Crayfish.


I want to express my heartfelt thanks to Nicholas Gilman who arranged for the meeting with Juan Pablo and through out the conversation added his own insights on the state of Mexican cooking.

Please check out one Nicholas's books, and if you are in Mexico City I highly recommend you stop by Limosneros for Lunch of Dinner, for a Taco or Mezcal tasting, Etc.
Transcript:

(00:00:00.0)

Harry Hawk:

I made them try it and it’s just crunchy. It’s like eating a little bit of a crunchy fishtail or fishbone that’s been deep-fried.

(00:00:08.9)

Nicholas Gilman:

Yeah, there’s nothing scary about it and it’s really quite beautiful I think.

(00:00:12.8)

Harry Hawk:

This is Harry Hawk and this is Talking About Everything and I’m back with just a short conversation here with Juan Pablo again. We’ve been talking about Mexico City. We’ve  been talking about sourcing organic and indigenous ingredients. Juan Pablo, I don’t know what you know about my own background, but I started in technology but I spent 10 years running restaurants and creating restaurants in New York, a burger place called Schnäck. 

(00:00:37.6)

The big thing that I’m most well known for is with the port authority who created a beach bar in a desolate part of Queens. We created basically a fake beach much like say the plages in Paris or something like that. And you go into a lot of kitchens in New York, everywhere we have our Mexican friends, they’re there in the kitchens. We cannot run our kitchens without all of the contributors that’s certainly including the chefs and line cooks from Mexico. When you’re creating a new way to do Mexican food here in Mexico, how hard is it to find the right cook? I mean, did you know right away who you wanted or was it a trial process? Anything that you can say? I’m just curious how you went about that.

(00:01:17.0)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Well, at first we didn’t know who to pick and I did know people from the restaurant business, since I was acquainted with the whole thing due to my parents place. But it was then when we were starting Limosneros that I started talking to a friend and we really got along. We had the same ideas and like Nick mentioned I am not a chef. I don’t know how to cook. I focus on drinks and industrial design of the whole thing, and that’s what I like to do. So, something that really adds to my project was a chef that was really in touch with ingredients and knew to take the essence of every ingredient and respect it. And based in traditional Mexican cuisine like the type of indigenous corn that we have or the chiles or the fish, or the organic meats or anything like that to respect it and to make these recipes that feel modern. That everyone that walks in here knows they’re contemporary. That was difficult to find, but I was lucky and I stumbled upon him and he’s at this very moment cooking some escamoles for us.

(00:02:20.9)

Nicholas Gilman:

Escamoles are ant eggs and I guess they’re available all year round. Is that so?

(00:02:27.1)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Yeah. There’s a season to them, but they really don’t lose anything if you freeze them.

(00:02:32.3)

Nicholas Gilman:

We also call them Mexican caviar because in some ways eating them reminds you of eating caviar. They are small, white, oval shaped things that kind of pop in your mouth and are a little bit salty and a little bit...is fishy the right word, maybe not. Well, see they’re so often prepared with so much garlic that you can’t taste them that’s kind of the problem. That’s why it’s great to have them done by a chef who’s more experienced who really knows what he’s doing and you have two chefs in the kitchen.

(00:03:03.8)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Exactly. Their names are Marcos Fulcheri and Carlo Meléndez.

(00:03:08.3)

Nicholas Gilman:

And they’ve been with you since the beginning?

(00:03:10.2)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Yes. They both feed each other with ideas and they designed the dishes that are coming out every month, which is a difficult process because you have to invent seven new dishes every four weeks plus you have to keep usual many that we have year round with things that we can get always and to try to make that better. For example, right now we are trying to get 19 different types of corn so we can make a whole menu out of it and then use them in the thing that they should be used on. For example, it’s not the same to use a type of corn, like blue corn for example, for _____ (03:45) or this comforts treat for quesadilla or taco, or whatever than to use another type of corn for what we call _____ (03:54), which can be a dessert.

(00:03:56.8)

Nicholas Gilman:

And let me add that these varieties of corn are fast disappearing. We are receiving genetically modified corn from the United States, which is one single variety that’s putting all of these heirloom corns out of business, small farmers out of business. So, it’s the job of restaurants like Limosneros to rescue these varieties of corn and present them to the public. And we hope that this is going to be kind of a trickledown effect that these corns will be grown again, that they’ll be saved, because they are literally disappearing, as are indigenous languages, as is so much culture here and in the world.

(00:04:38.2)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

And yes, due to that we try to promote the harvesting of these corns, of these beans. We’re trying to get a lot of beans too. That is something that’s been happening too in Napa Valley, for example, with a place called Rancho Gordo, which is an amazing project of different plantations or parcels, or ranches of beans that have been collected by these guys and they can come from Poland or Canada, or Mexico, the States and it’s like a library of seeds, of beans. And that’s the diversity that we should keep and keep out the international monopolies such as Monsanto or all of them and have this array of flavors that make our gastronomy rich.

(00:05:22.2)

Harry Hawk:

Talking about gastronomy and gastronomic tourism, and we’re thinking of all around the world. Obviously, that’s some reason that you might go to Paris is for the food of course. Recently at the New York City Food Film Festival over the last several years we did a film both on _____ (05:35) and then another film called Finding Gaston all about the wave of food tourism that is in Peru in Lima. Is there a competition in a sense for attention, especially the American attention, about the food culture here and what you’re doing? Is Mexico waiting to have its Finding Gaston moment where all of a sudden the world comes running here or is it already happening?

(00:05:57.2)

Nicholas Gilman:

It’s been happening for a while. I think that Peru, which is a smaller and poorer country than Mexico but has an amazing gastronomy, has been really led by Gaston Acurio because he’s a natural leader, he’s more politically involved. And so, he’s brought people to that country. We have had much more tourism always in Mexico, but we don’t have a Gaston Acurio. So, it’s our job to really put out the word and we also are fighting the bad press that Mexico gets because of the narco-violence. We can’t really go without saying that it hasn’t touched us here in Mexico City, but people confuse the whole country with the border areas and some of the interior areas where these things are happening. So, we have a lot against us. It’s an uphill battle. 

(00:06:49.3)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Mexican people is getting recognized for its culture and its gastronomy, and its cuisine that dates back from all of the monasteries where women called, _____ (06:59), used to make this traditional food, these traditional dishes that are recognized worldwide today. And people were trying to show this to the world and this is when in 2012 Mexican cuisine became...

(00:07:15.4)

Nicholas Gilman:

A patrimony out of humanity by UNESCO.


(00:07:18.2)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Exactly. Along with France and since then there has been this new wave of young chefs that are exactly the sons of these mothers, of these _____ (07:27) of these grandmothers who were traditional cooks. Due to new techniques and globalization we’ve been able to have all of this new expression of our Mexican.

(00:07:40.2)

Nicholas Gilman:

And there are two words that you can’t ignore when you’re having this conversation and those words are Enrique Olvera who is now an internationally known chef whose restaurant Pujol really was the first place in the country to bring these contemporary techniques to Mexican gastronomy. The trickledown effect of him is that all these chefs who have come out of his restaurant who are young are working in other places or opening their own places. There are several of them, Eduardo Garcia is the best known, he worked at Pujol and there are several others, and that is really a wonderful thing. And now, Olvera has gone international. He has a place in New York called Cosme. I believe he’s opening a place in Cuba, which is really amazing.

(00:08:27.4)

Harry Hawk:

That’s amazing. Not to interrupt you. What do we have here? What’s going on?

(00:08:31.4)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

So, our fish night. It’s what we call a river taco. Rivers are underestimated a bit and everyone goes for the sea. This is one of the tacos that I was talking to you about. This one what we call Taco De Río. It includes two types of crayfish. One that we call chacales in Mexico and the other one is called acociles and that one is a type of mini lobster.

(00:08:57.3)

Nicholas Gilman:

It looks like a tiny bright red lobster and the first one you mentioned looks like a shrimp. It’s a beautiful rosy color with kind of veins of red and on top of those shrimp, they’re about an inch and a half in diameter, are these tiny little mini, mini red lobsters that are about an inch each. And they are freshwater crayfish, as you say, and how are they prepared?

(00:09:23.4)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Well, to wrap the whole dish. We have cilantro coriander tortilla and bacon spread.

(00:09:29.2)

Nicholas Gilman:

Which is bright green. Absolutely gorgeous. 

(00:09:32.2)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Exactly. The bacon spread, which would be like a surf and turf taco here, well that’s the idea and then pico de gallo with green apple. That should be always eat a taco with your hands. So, since it’s two just separate it from the meal give that one to Nick and then please have one, and you will be pairing this with Mezcal.

(00:09:51.8)

Nicholas Gilman:

If you don’t eat a taco with your hands it’s not a taco. The whole point of a taco is to be able to pick it up and eat it. I mean, that’s what a taco is. A taco is anything in a tortilla.

(00:10:02.5)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Exactly. You are right. And you are pairing this with Espadín Mezcal coming from the City of Oaxaca.

(00:10:11.6)

Nicholas Gilman:

Which is served in a little cup made out of gourd actually. It’s a plant that’s been dried, so it’s all very traditional.

(00:10:21.1)

Harry Hawk:

It’s awesome.

(00:10:21.5)

Nicholas Gilman:

It’s like seafood but sweet. There’s a little crunch from the acociles the little red lobster, the bacon puree brings in a little smoky flavor and there’s the tart and very lightly spicy cilantro sauce. It’s fabulous.

(00:10:39.1)

Harry Hawk:

The large river crayfish that look like shrimp they’re firm but tender and soft they’re not mushy. I’m not getting the green apple, but the whole thing works so well and then the pairing with the mezcal is fantastic. 

(00:10:50.7)

Nicholas Gilman:

It’s a little sweet and sour. This taco has everything and above all it has umami.

(00:10:57.9)

Harry Hawk:

Indeed. I’m chewing some of these little red lobsters. Such intense flavor. So, I completely agree with what we’ve been saying. This is a taco and there’s parts of it that are like any other taco I’ve ever had and then it’s completely different from the artisinal nature of the tortilla to the layers of flavor, the layers of texture. 

(00:11:17.2)

Nicholas Gilman:

Well, as I say a taco is anything. It’s anything you put into a tortilla. Obviously, it’s the combination and quality of the ingredients, and the intelligence of the chef who’s making it. However, I think the idea of making this kind of taco that’s a chef driven invented kind of thing is what’s new.

(00:11:37.2)

Harry Hawk:

And I can imagine maybe there’s somebody listening saying, “Oh, a taco is a taco.”

(00:11:41.1)

Nicholas Gilman:

There’s no such thing as a taco. A taco is anything. A taco is, as I say, it’s even more than a sandwich. It’s more all encompassing. It can be sweet. It can be savory.

(00:11:53.2)

Harry Hawk:

To go back to the US, to my country. Yes, there is the American grilled cheese sandwich with the Campbell’s tomato soup and there’s a thousand artisinal versions of that, right. The whole line of restaurants, farm to table, and new American are doing the same things with our cuisine. And it’s what you do at home if you’re a cook and you’re trying different ingredients, and making something unique.

(00:12:15.5)

Nicholas Gilman:

That’s true, but we have tradition that goes back even longer than the Conquest or the Spanish. So, we’re bringing in traditions, pre-Hispanic traditions, European traditions and contemporary chef kind of thought coming from Spain and New York, and we’re bringing much more tradition than the United States. A California cuisine, as wonderful as it is, was invented. Of course, European tradition comes into it. Playing with things that have been...those little red lobsters have been eaten in Mexico for millennia.

(00:12:49.4)

Harry Hawk:

Part of what I was trying to say in a sense is that we should have the permission as eaters and chefs to try these things, and to try different combinations. And as long as we don’t outlaw anybody else from doing something different. One of the things I was going to ask Juan Pablo, but he’s had to step away for a minute and perhaps you know. If somebody wants to get into becoming a chef in the United States, of course they might come to where I teach at CUNY NYCCT in the Hospitality and Management Program, but there’s the famous programs like the CIA, Culinary Institute of America, and so forth. Is there kind of the academic side of modern Mexican cooking if I wanted to become a Mexican chef?

(00:13:27.6)

Nicholas Gilman:

There are a number of culinary institutes here. Until very recently none of them taught Mexican food. Isn’t that interesting? They taught kind of international European techniques. There was a Cordon Bleu here, which I think is closing, but now there are several new schools. There’s one called _____ (13:47) teaches traditional Mexican cooking and techniques and that’s a wonderful thing. So, I guess you would have to learn Spanish first, but it can be done. Cocopaches are from the state of Puebla. These are the insects that we were talking about the big black beetles and it’s served with little dots of beautifully colored sauce. The green sauce is epazote, which is an herb and there is a chipotle sauce, and the sort of raviolis that these bugs are perched on is made of a squash blossom flower filled with a fresh cheese.

(00:14:28.3)

Harry Hawk:

So, this is similar or identical to the dish that you described.

(00:14:31.6)

Nicholas Gilman:

Yes. This is the dish I described. Slightly different in its configuration, but yes.

(00:14:37.1)

Harry Hawk:

All right. So, I’ve got some pictures and there are bugs on this food. 

(00:14:41.4)

Nicholas Gilman:

And they’re all for you.

(00:14:42.7)

Harry Hawk:

And the waiter knows it because he brought it to us. Should we wait for Juan Pablo? We’ve eaten in my family bugs from the sea for a long time, but here’s my first Cocopaches. Did I say that right?

(00:14:55.9)

Nicholas Gilman:

You did.

(00:14:56.5)

Harry Hawk:

Cocopaches. Down the hatch.

(00:14:59.2)

Nicholas Gilman:

Buen provecho. Bon appetite. Can you actually taste the Cocopaches? 

(00:15:06.1)

Harry Hawk:

I made them to try it and it’s just crunchy. It’s like eating a little bit of a crunchy fishtail or fishbone that’s been deep-fried.

(00:15:14.9)

Nicholas Gilman:

Yeah. There’s nothing scary about it and it’s really quite beautiful I think.

(00:15:18.6)

Harry Hawk:

Architecturally, it’s a little different from a lobster or eating the head of a shrimp that’s been deep-fried in a Japanese restaurant.

(00:15:25.8)

Nicholas Gilman:

But it’s kind of similar the experience is.

(00:15:28.5)

Harry Hawk:

So, I just had a Cocopaches by itself and I can taste a little bit of the oil, but it’s just crunchy and just delicious. Earthy in a very nice way. It’s enjoyable.

(00:15:40.6)

Nicholas Gilman:

I’ve eaten many of them.

(00:15:41.6)

Harry Hawk:

Absolutely delicious. Now, what’s this here? We have some other accompaniments.

(00:15:46.5)

Nicholas Gilman:

So, this here is salt in which have been ground smoky gu’sanos de magei, which are the little worms that are found in the maguey plant and they are the traditional compliment to Mezcal, and then we have some orange slices next to it. So, you are supposed to take a little pinch of the gu’sanos salt and have it between sips of the Mezcal. It kind of refreshes the palate, as does of course the orange.

(00:16:15.8)

Harry Hawk:

I mean, is there any relation here when I think about being in a very bad bar in America having a margarita with some salt on the rim?

(00:16:23.6)

Nicholas Gilman:

Yes, there’s a total relation to that definitely but this is a little bit more refined, but it comes from the tradition. This is how they drink Mezcal. Actually, two things on the plate and I think the other one is the chapulines, which is grasshoppers that are fried and ground up. We have to have Juan Pablo tell us.

(00:16:42.5)

Harry Hawk:

It’s like bacon. I mean, there’s burger restaurants now, big chains of hundreds of stores that do a quick milkshake or something.

(00:16:48.9)

Nicholas Gilman:

They should serve grasshoppers.

(00:16:51.6)

Harry Hawk:

Maybe the Mezcal a little bit first helped. I have always said as a point of pride, “If you find something that you eat on a regular basis your family, your friends eat it, I’m willing to try it.” Now, if it’s something that you’re not willing to eat yourself maybe I don’t want to try it either.

(00:17:07.6)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

I wouldn’t serve it either.

(00:17:09.0)

Harry Hawk:

Absolutely, delicious from the tacos down to these little ravioli squashes with the cheese filling, the crunchiness, the earthiness. Nicholas was explaining the salts and then he thought this was grasshopper maybe.

(00:17:22.4)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Grasshopper and the other one’s agave worm salt and they’re made in Guerrero state. They’re not very aggressive to the mouth. And then we always have like a fruitier one with hibiscus. For example, we have one with mole. So, Mexican sauce but two of them are insect driven and the other one’s like fruitier.

(00:17:45.9)

Harry Hawk:


Well, it was fantastic. I mean, this little taste of everything has been great. Are you drinking the same Mezcal as before or are you drinking something different now?

(00:17:53.3)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

No, the same Mezcal. I just take a slower pace because I’m here all day.

(00:17:59.3)

Harry Hawk:

And I understand that. At my restaurant Schnäck, I would train myself not to eat anything and then 1 o’clock in the morning we’d close, and I’d be starving to death. So, yeah, you kind of have to either be at work or not at work. I don’t have really anymore questions. I’ve really enjoyed this conversational nature of this last little segment and the food. Is there anything that comes to mind that you want to say or share, or just off the top of your head? Feel free to take the mic.

(00:18:26.9)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

Your show says we’ve talked about everything. So, I think it covers pretty much all of our concept and what you can find in this place, and how it came to be what it is today. We weren’t expecting this. The success that we have today was due to the passion that we put on.

(00:18:45.7)

Harry Hawk:

I was going to ask, “Is this is a passion project?”

(00:18:48.1)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

It was definitely a passion project. We never expected anything like this and it was just a way of transmitting our tastes and likes, and what should Mexico taste like for everyone exactly today. 

(00:19:01.1)

Harry Hawk:

So, I’d like you to talk to a very specific audience. I don’t know if they’re really listening. But back at New York City College of Technology, a college within CUNY in the Hospitality Management Department, we have about a thousand students and we are incredibly diverse. So, I mean the student body come from everywhere of every age and every possible origin. But within that are a number of individuals who were either born or their families are from Mexico and as each student does they bring everything they have to the learning, and then they pickup everything that’s taught. A student from Korea can bring their Korean culture and food, and our students, again, have the direct or indirect cultural heritage of Mexico. Is there something that you might say to them as they’re contemplating a career in hospitality, a career in the kitchen or front of house wherever it may be? Something that you’ve learned here about following passion, about taking chances and risks?

(00:19:59.6)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

I would definitely bet on anything that’s Mexican today, because we’ve come to a point where finally all of the Mexican traditional ingredients, places, all of our cuisine, our type of service, which is something that we enjoy too and that’s noticeable. And I would bet on anything like this, but you first have to be in love with everything that is ours. If you do that with passion then it’s almost certain that people will appreciate it in any other country or this country itself and success will be a consequence of this passion for what is ours and how to express it. And there’s millions of ways to be representing Mexico. So, I think anyone that’s passionate about the Mexican universe go ahead plan it with all of the structuredness that is needed I think we will be successful together. 

(00:20:51.5)

Harry Hawk:

I happen to agree. I’m about to take a picture. So, three, two, one. And you can take a look and see if that’s any good. So, we are coming to the end of all these little episodes and we’ve really imposed far too much time on some very busy folks. But I hope you have been listening and have picked up something of the food, the culture, the people and most especially have picked up the passion of Juan Pablo and his staff here. And they’ve been fantastic to me from the moment I walked in not knowing who I was and then as we’ve been interviewing and how they’ve been really attentive to our needs and really at the same time respecting the fact that we’ve been recording. I would ask both Nicholas and Juan Pablo once again to tell people where they can find you and on the Internet and otherwise.

(00:21:36.1)

Juan Pablo Ballesteros:

So, we are located in the heart of downtown Mexico City. The street name is Allende, the number is three and we are located a few steps from Tacuba Street. We are really close to Bellas Artes a fines art palace and an emblematic building of the city. A very beautiful one too. And you can locate us on the number 55.21.55.76. The Twitter is @Limosnerosmx. Our Facebook page is Limosneros. The webpage is Limosneros.com.mx.

(00:22:08.5)

Nicholas Gilman:

And you can read my review at goodfoodmexicocity.com. Just look for Limosneros, www.goodfoodmexicocity.com.

(00:22:17.7)

Harry Hawk:

My name is Harry Hawk and you have been listening to an extended, overtime and wonderful conversation about food and culture. I hope that everybody has a great day. You can find me on Twitter @hhawk and you can find this podcast and many others at talkingabouteverything.com. Again, I hope you have a great week. Bye-bye.

(00:22:37.8)

Chuck Fresh:

My name is Chuck Fresh and I’m being paid to thank you for listening to Talking About Everything with Harry Hawk. Harry wants to hear from you on Twitter @hhawk or HarryHawk@gmail.com. And now, a word from our sponsor, life extension coach and favorite chef. Hawk Digital Marketing is focused on bringing brands and people together. We build communities of interests based on trust and transparency where consumers and brands can converse, learn, discuss or solve problems together while creating a long-term connection, entanglement, between you and your customers. Once connected we help you engage, communicate, sell, present, educate and inform. Evolve your communications with us Hawksocialmarketing.com.

Talking with Juan Pablo Ballesteros about Mexican Food and Ingredients - Ep. 40

Juan Pablo Ballesteros a 4th generation restaurateur from Mexico City has created an modern Mexican restaurant in a 3.5 century old building using entirely Mexican ingredients. He is the owner of Restaurant Limosneros. Limosneros uses traditional Mexican ingredients, and techniques, but they have created a completely modern take on the cuisine.  Their fresh ingredients are sourced from around the country. Artisan products including Beef, Chicken, Pork and Mescal, plus modern additions like Mexican craft beer and wine. Many of these items are very rare and hard to find. 


Every ingredient is traditional, is Mexican, but the creativity of Limosneros Chefs really speaks out. Nicholas Gilman who has been my guide to Mexico City Cuisine sat down with Juan Pablo and myself for several conversations. We also had the opportunity to sample some of the food prepared by Limosneros Chefs. Of course we tried the insects: crunchy exterior, earthy taste, but overall amazing. 


More than 1/2 dozen different types of insects, grubs and eggs have made it to the menu here, but there is certainly more to the menu. Seasonal and tasting menus available with or without alcohol pairings. Everything from a modern take on Tacos to entirely new creations made with the most traditional of ingredients. You can read more from Nicholas review



Links:


Transcript

(00:00:00.0)
Nicholas Gilman:
We are here in what I have said is a modern Mexican restaurant. The owner, entrepreneur, designer, comes from a family that has been in the restaurant business for over a hundred years, and let me describe a dish that I ate here that was beautiful and horrifying.

(00:00:19.6)
Harry Hawk:
This is Harry Hawk and this is talking about everything. Nicholas and I have been talking about the historical central district of Mexico City, and Nicholas, as we said just a minute ago, we kind of want to talk about food and ingredients because I understand now where I am and the transformation that’s happened only in the last couple years, so how can we do that?

(00:00:38.4)
Nicholas Gilman:
Well, I’d like to talk a little bit about the specific place we’re in. We are here are in what I have said is a modern Mexican restaurant, but the owner, entrepreneur, designer, and brains behind this place comes from a family that has been in the restaurant business for over a hundred years. In fact, around the corner is a place called Café De Tacuba, which is an institution beloved by Mexicans. It opened in 1912, and it’s still there. It’s actually connected to this building. Juan Pablo Ballesteros, who is with us here today, is not a chef, but he is an entrepreneur and he knows about food and he knows about restaurants, and he decided to do something different and new in this new revived historic center, so I’d like to introduce Juan Pablo.

(00:01:27.2)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Thank you, Nick. Thank you, Harry. Thanks for having me.

(00:01:29.7)
Harry Hawk:
Our pleasure.

(00:01:30.4)
Nicholas Gilman:
So tell me a little bit, Juan Pablo, about what you decided to do. What brought you in to this?

(00:01:36.7)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Well actually it was partly the vein that you actually just mentioned, the restaurateur vein that my family had for four generation of Café de Tacuba. So I had this inspiration and I’ve always had a life of good Mexican eating, and we are honored to present traditional Mexican cuisine to the world in this way. I thought it was about time that downtown Mexico City had a place that was contemporary in that way. It was modern contrasting. It was…some people called it the rebellious son of Café de Tacuba.

(00:02:08.1)
Nicholas Gilman:
I should add that Café de Tacuba is a very traditional restaurant.

(00:02:12.2)
Harry Hawk:
Juan Pablo was the first one in.

(00:02:13.6)
Nicholas Gilman:
And Juan Pablo was just about the first person to take advantage of that need to bring a new kind of place back to the center. I think it’s the first restaurant of this level to have opened in this area in decades. Isn’t that true?

(00:02:27.8)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Well I like to think so. Actually, just like you said, we thought it was a bit risky, but eventually the Mexico City’s downtown needed a place. This idea, which is smaller and  much more focused to what’s craftily made dishes and artisanal drinks, and to really get away finally from all of the monopolies that constantly bombard us with their media, and their brands , and whatever, and then it was…

(00:02:54.6)
Harry Hawk:
Large national brands.

(00:02:56.4)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Exactly, or just the sponsors in Mexico, they’re, you could say, a bit aggressive, so they really talk you into having a sponsorship of some kind. You could say beer, you could say drinks, you could say something else, and that leaves you with all of the limitations for your clientele, and we wanted something very authentic that we could keep on changing. We would keep evolving, and that will fulfill Mexican palates and foreign palates as well, and it would be showing some of the immense richness of Mexico, this array of flavor experience that we have.

(00:03:32.9)
Harry Hawk:
I’d like to dive into that a little bit. I don’t know that people listening fully understand when you say that everything’s from Mexico. They understand it’s a big country, but you must get this from France or you must get this from the United States, and we also talk about local. Every city has kind of a different definition of local because if you’re in Alaska you kind of almost have to bring something in, but when you’re in New York you need a three hundred mile radius and so forth, but if you can talk about how you went about finding the ingredients and the kinds of ingredients and relationships that you have or had to create to find the ingredients, and I think that would be really fascinating.

(00:04:08.4)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
It was a bit difficult. In the beginning we’d try to find all of these ingredients that we wanted to reunite in a different manner, and it was all of these things that are dusty and unused in the different towns of the country. At first it was a bit hard to find them, but then people knew that we were doing exactly what many people wanted, to show them and to offer them in a much more novelty or original way, so every ingredient is traditional and Mexican, but our dishes are the result of the creativeness of the kitchen or whatever. It’s contemporary. It’s modern. It’s different. So it was then that people came to offer them, just we were receiving all kinds of…

(00:04:53.5)
Harry Hawk:
Can you list a few or categories of things? I mean, I’d like to get very specific if we can.

(00:04:58.0)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Oh, definitely. We actually started making, for example, mortar salsas tableside and then we got all of these different species of chilies coming from all over the country, and then you got to pick your ingredients and local market ingredients to choose from, and it was just fresh. Later, we knew how important it was of the fisherman’s market in Ensenada, and this is the fresh fish that we’re getting. The usual catch of the day that you get to see all of the time in New York, for example, it wasn’t really popular here, and so we were flying the fish over and having these occasional menus of seasonal ingredients, which in Mexico wasn’t really something very respected. Mexican people want everything all year. They don’t give time for ingredients or for animals, or for anything to be at its prime, to have a good population. We want everything all the time.

(00:05:56.5)
Nicholas Gilman:
But let me add something, there is a history going back to the Aztec’s, going back to Montezuma, of ingredients being brought into Mexico City, right where we’re…practically where we’re sitting. Before the Spanish arrived they had a system of canals, of porters who brought game from the mountains, fish from the seas. It’s always been brought here. It’s not like a new thing. Now we have new technology, we have airplanes, but as I said before, there’s an amazing array of ingredients in this country and we’re so lucky to be able to have access to it all now.

(00:06:29.8)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Exactly, and it was about time that many chefs and people came to realize the cornucopia of ingredients that we have in the country.

(00:06:39.4)
Harry Hawk:
I mean, one of the things you mentioned, people want everything all the time, and so I goes someplace with a friend and they may say, oh, they’re out of that, and I get very upset because I say, this is great. This is amazing. If they’re out of it, it means that they didn’t buy a thousand of them or ten thousand of them and stick them in the freezer. They bought what they thought they could sell, they ran out because it was popular, and they ran out because the quality is high. Trust me. They could make sure they never run out. Do you agree with that?

(00:07:06.1)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Nobody ever really sees that, that you see behind the, we run out of it. Yeah, we try to get these ingredients and occasional seasonal menu so that we can offer freshness, and also what I was talking about, local ingredients, so first came the chilies, then the insects. All of the insects were really, how would you put it, stigmatized, or people were looking at it in a different way. It was visual impact and people didn’t want to eat it because of some psychological thing, but they have been here with us for a lot of centuries and it was our most important, biggest contribution to the world’s gastronomy. It was insects.

(00:07:43.9)
Nicholas Gilman:
And let me describe a dish that I ate here that was beautiful and horrifying at the same time. It was served for the first time at a big business dinner that Juan Pablo did for me here, and it was called Cocopaches _____ (00:08:01.0) Ravioli de Flor de Calabaza. Cocopaches is a kind of insect. It looks like a big kind of a black beetle. It’s about an inch and a half long, and the ravioli were really squashed _____ (00:08:14.0) flowers filled with cheese, so they were kind of normal and beautiful orange, yellow colored, and these cocopaches looked like giant cockroaches. They were huge, and shiny, and black. It was a beautiful thing, but kind of terrifying, and I was afraid to bite into one of these things and I thought the juice was going to squeeze out and it was going to be really gross, but they were deep-fried. They were kind of hollow inside. They had a wonderful very light, crispy texture. They had kind of an aroma almost of cinnamon, a little bit I think.

(00:08:47.7)
They were very earthy tasting, and after you get over yourself and you realize that food is food and there’s no reason to eat one thing or another thing, you just get over yourself and you can appreciate how wonderful these things are and it’s part of Mexican gastronomy. It’s part of a lot of gastronomies, a lot of cuisines around the world, eating insects, and perhaps it’s the future. Right now it’s something that’s kind of fashionable amongst the chefs in Mexico because they’re reaching back into their past and bringing these things into a new kind of post-modern context.

(00:09:22.8)
Harry Hawk:
So Juan Pablo, a list. What are the insects that have made their way to your menu?

(00:09:27.9)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
It depends on the month of the year, but we’ve had the cocopaches, just as described. That time I gave you roaches. I’m not sure if you realized that. That’s the reason you didn’t like that first, just kidding. We usually carry those types of insects and we don’t get to see them in another…well I haven’t seen them in another restaurant, so it’s something that towns, they use them, but we have our own recipe for you to explore that flavor. And we’ve had escamoles, that’s something that…a popular dish. We’ve had _____ (00:09:56.9).


Nicholas Gilman:
Which are ant eggs.

(00:09:58.7)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Ant eggs, yes, exactly. _____ (00:10:00.0), which is a type of…

(00:10:01.6)
Harry Hawk:
A grub.

(00:10:02.5)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Exactly, and then we’ve had jumiles.

(00:10:06.7)
Nicholas Gilman:
Which are little creepy, crawly gray bugs.

(00:10:12.6)
Nicholas Gilman:
Yeah, but all these things come from tradition. Juan Pablo isn’t out there in the street like catching things with a net. I mean, all these insects have been eaten in Mexico for hundreds and hundreds of years and you’re just sort of bringing them back into contemporary fine dining context.


(00:10:30.4)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
They are the protagonist of the dish, but we do make the compliments, offer them in a visual, more attractive, appealing way. We’ve had _____ (00:10:40.4), which is another strange one which is the eggs of the mosquitoes, like the larvae, which sounds really not so very tasty, but once you get to try them…

(00:10:51.0)
Harry Hawk:
Well you talk about eggs and things of course, we eat eggs. We eat these things in other contexts. The comedian, whose name I cannot remember at the moment, said once, the bravest man in the world is the guy who looked at a cow and said, I’m going to go up there and I’m going to drink what comes out of there. All of our food is strange until it’s not strange. My question is, so then knowing that you want to bring these things in and find them and people are finding you and all that, but I mean, I know again, in context, the Backstage Café that I set up on Governors Island, we had a local farm on the island and we made a relationship. Are there bug famers, bug raisers? Is there a family that’s been doing it for a hundred years or did you have to convince somebody to go into business to sell it, or what is the process of finding that supplier?

(00:11:31.7)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Just like Nick said, it’s been centuries that these people have been selling them and catching them, and you get to see the videos and there’s a lot of people that are actually know where to look for them and exactly when. There’s different techniques to grab either the larvae of a butterfly or the ant eggs, which are laid in the shadows of a big plant and then you go and filter the dust and whatever’s left on the ground and you end up with the eggs. And so you have techniques, seasons, and people that have been doing this for centuries, and they have been eating it for a lot of time due to _____ (00:12:07.8) reasons to the impact that you have on the soil, on the earth, and the difference that is to raise cattle or to catch bugs, which is very different in sustainability.

(00:12:19.7)
Nicholas Gilman:
But the irony is that now these things are kind of expensive. They’re not really so popular anymore because there are these artisans and these specialists who raise them. I’d like to add that that’s only one aspect of your restaurant. We don’t want to scare people away here. They have chicken, they have beef, they have pork, tacos, these beautiful artisan tacos made with corn tortillas, organic corn grown in this area. There are small providers who are working with restaurants, especially in the metropolitan area now, who are providing all of these things from chickens, to beef, to game animals, and vegetables, exotic vegetables, as well as these indigenous products that are being revived and saved.

(00:13:07.4)
Harry Hawk:
Then what I wanted to just confirm, so then most of these insects aren’t farm-raised, they’re forged wild.

(00:13:12.7)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Both. I mentioned _____ (00:13:13.3), but we also have grasshoppers which are really popular. They’re not so strange anymore. You can go to any market in Oaxaca or many other places and you’ll get to see mountains of it, just take it like a bag and eat them like chips, so that one can be grown or…

(00:13:29.2)
Harry Hawk:
In the farm.

(00:13:29.6)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
You could say that, and then some other ones are wildly catched, like for example, chicatanas, which is my favorite one, this winged ant. They come out in rainy seasons especially in Oaxaca. They’re big. They’re black. And after the rain something happens to them, they become like clumsy and they fall to the floor. It could be in the woods. It could be on the streets. I’ve seen them grab them on the streets of any town, and they are quite expensive. What’s particular about them, they have, inside of their body, the same molecule that makes chilies spicy, which is capsaicin. What’s funny about it is that they sort of spice, they tickle your tongue, not in the same way as chilies, but that is a reason that they put it in a sauce, and the flavor’s just amazing, and they only come out June, July, for example, then that’s when we have them. Just like Nick said, I don’t want to scare people away. We have every sort of thing on the menu.

(00:14:26.0)
Harry Hawk:
That’s what I’d really like to run down. I mean, you’re getting artisanal chicken, artisanal pigs. Are there particular breeds? Are there particular heirloom?

(00:14:34.2)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
When it comes to meat, we do have meat from organic ranches, which is the breed is called _____ (00:14:40.8). It’s a European breed. Also, a mixture of _____ (00:14:45.8). We haven’t explored the market of organic meat and how to keep all the soil without pesticides, and to keep on changing the animals and the compost in order for us not to use any chemicals and complete the cycle, and that’s what we’re distributing here. And we actually have another restaurant that focuses on just organic meat, but this is where it came from. This is where we cooked the idea. We’ve been having these types of meat, even if it’s lamb or mutton or _____ (00:15:19.6) pork, that is where we specify it on this.


(00:15:23.6)
Harry Hawk:
You just mentioned mutton, which this is a big thing that gets me upset in New York because you’ll see it on the menu and then know it’s just lamb. I have a friend, Zak Pelaccio, has Hudson Fish and Game, and the Nouvelle Cuisine Guide read of things like hanging duck, but he’s gone back to his farmers. He moved from Brooklyn out to the country so he could be near the farmers and he’s hanging ducks for six weeks. A little bit expensive. So you mentioned mutton. Are there things that are aged, or cultured, or cured in ways that are very traditional that you could mention?

(00:15:54.5)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Definitely. All of our meat that’s aged for either 21 of the 35 days and that way it gets a lot of qualities, the softness, the punch of flavor that you have on meat when it goes through that process. When it comes to mutton, for example, we use that in even what we call tacos de canasta, which is like a sweaty taco inside of a plastic bag that people on bikes sell on the street, and they use mutton, and it’s much more strong in terms of flavor, aromatic. It’s aggressively aromatic. Yeah, but we get some mixture and then it’s an acquired taste, but once you get to like it, you love it.

(00:16:33.0)
Nicholas Gilman:
In Mexico we eat everything. We eat the whole animal, and there isn’t really such a thing as lamb because what they call lamb, or cordero, is usually what in the United States or England you’d call mutton, it’s big and it’s stronger, and every single part of the animal is eaten and used, from the head on down to the tail and the foot.

(00:16:55.4)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
The whole beast.

(00:16:56.4)
Nicholas Gilman:
The whole beast. So some of the dishes on your menu, for example, are tacos, but the idea of eating a taco, of serving tacos in an elegant restaurant is something really new. Twenty, thirty years ago it would have been unheard of. A taco was something you ate on the street. A taco was something a poor person would eat, and in elegant households they strove for French-style and European-style, but that’s all changed. So Juan Pablo is one of the first people, one of the first places in Mexico City to be offering a taco tasting, degustacion de tacos, which is a tasting of tacos, and these tacos are based on very traditional tacos, but are more sort of chef-created interesting post-modern ideas of what a taco is. Can you tell us a little bit about that?

(00:17:52.5)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Yeah, sure. We started with one a month, so on the seasonal menu we used to introduce one type of taco, and the idea was to have this really soul food to Mexicans. It was like not just comfort food, but something that you are really attached to. We sort of gourmetized them. So it’s like a dish, like a complex dish, structured and everything with these fresh grade ingredients, but we put a tortilla underneath and we try to make sense out of it, and you get a rib eye taco, that’s something that we all know, but we add the chicharron, which is like the scratchings of the rib eye, already crunchy, and then we add figs and a spread of pate, which is like a Mexican sweet jelly, a traditional candy combined with red chilies, and after that we add Pico de Gallo with _____ (00:18:42.1), which is a small acid cacti. And so you end up with a gourmet taco that has a base of something that you already know, but a combination of ingredients that we try to surprise people so it surprises you. And as Nick was saying, we have a whole tasting of them that goes from _____ (00:18:59.4) taco with crayfish to rabbit carnitas passing through suaderro, which is something popular on the street, but we have salsa from the peninsula of Yucatan, rib eye, pork belly, and then finally a fruit dessert taco with _____ (00:19:16.3) vanilla and mamey crème, a honey tortilla. So what we have here, it’s a food that you recognize and you don’t see as pretentious, but it’s got its complexity to them. Yeah, it’s the first tasting taco menu that I’ve seen in a restaurant this type.

(00:19:35.8)
Nicholas Gilman:
And that really says a lot about what this place is because the building itself is sort of a rethinking. It’s a traditional colonial building, that’s also modern at the same time. So I think even before you started with your menu when you were fixing up this three hundred year old building, and you left elements of the original architecture and brought in some modern touches, modern lighting, and you really integrated it well. I think that’s a very hard thing to do.

(00:20:04.9)
Harry Hawk:
So specific question about that I’ve been dying to ask because I’ve been in buildings of similar age, but is there a date or a date that you use to kind of when the building was…the construction started or finished historically?

(00:20:16.9)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Well unfortunately the files for most of the buildings in the first quarter of downtown, they burned, and so we lost track of exactly who made it and what sort of style is every single building or façade, but the architect that helped here, he was restoring all of these monuments and buildings, and they calculated 3.5 to four centuries for this building.

(00:20:44.0)
Harry Hawk:
So we’re talking seventeen something, so sixteen hundreds, the time of Rembrandt and the time that maybe before the pilgrims came.

(00:20:52.1)
Nicholas Gilman:
The time of the Renaissance in Italy is when it was starting here. This is a little bit later than that. I mean, maybe more of the time of Bach, but nevertheless, it’s old.

(00:21:01.2)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
We were being colonized and actually the street that we are sitting, and it was a street called the Canal Street, and it was water. It wasn’t a street. We know in this block the IRS of those times for the Spanish Crown, lived in this block. Later on it became like a casona, which is like a big house designed for people to get in by horse, and then we lost track of what it was.

(00:21:26.8)
Harry Hawk:
But then the first use you’re saying was maybe a storeroom or a counting room.


(00:21:31.3)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
It should have been like a house. It should have been a big house for people that were living in this part, and then centuries later it became commerce. We know some small part of it that’s the part that we connect to Café de Tacuba, that was the first psych ward in the country, which was the Hospital of the Divine Saviour, which is the Divine Savior, and that was the first hospital to be treating patients with mind illnesses. So we know that part, but then again where we’re having this conversation we don’t really know because it was burned, but we know its old, and that is building is what tells us the age of it and it’s also the reason for the name of the restaurant, Limosneros. I got it from the walls, so the unique name _____ (00:22:21.1) walls at that time _____ (00:22:23.4) because the church used to ask people for stone materials in order to build up churches, monasteries, all these sort of Catholic…

(00:22:33.8)
Nicholas Gilman:
Religious buildings.

(00:22:34.9)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Religious buildings, exactly, and people were to chip in with _____ (00:22:39.1) or volcanic stone, _____ (00:22:41.0). All of these stones were put together in this collage to make these strong, thick walls that have all of these textures, so we recover them. We try to make them very evident in the place, and we try to have the same language in the design for the place. So we use a lot of volcanic stones, like our lamps for example, old wood, _____ (00:23:08.1). Since the walls are very gray and heavy to the site, we try to have the most colorful art that we get in Mexico, which is for me _____ (00:23:18.9) art, and so colorful that it really stands out from the limosneros wall or _____ (00:23:25.9).

(00:23:27.2)
Harry Hawk:
I’m going to pull this all together. We’re in an old part of town, in an old country, and we’re in an old building that has been adapted and we are now serving very, very modern food using, the word you used earlier, the patrimony of the country. We are using the most authentic ingredients to create the most modern of dishes.

(00:23:47.9)
Nicholas Gilman:
But all based on tradition.

(00:23:49.9)
Harry Hawk:
What I would ask you to do at this point, I think we’re had the conversation about food and ingredients that I wanted to have. I would ask both of you in a sense to plug the restaurant. If someone came here, you’ve talked about some of the dishes, but how should they think about the menu, and if they’re not coming to Mexico City and they’re just thinking about Mexican food, if you have any thoughts or wisdom as well, but I’d really like to focus on the food here.

(00:24:15.0)
Nicholas Gilman:
This is Mexican food. I think that’s what we want people outside of Mexico to know, that Mexican food is a very, very complex thing, and I write about street food, and I also write about high-end restaurants like this, and we hope that people will come here with an open mind and want to try everything. You’re coming here to a Mexican restaurant, but you’re not going to find, other than those high-end tacos, you’re not going to find things that you would think. You’re not going to find any nachos and you’re not going to find any enchiladas or anything like that, but it’s all part of Mexican food and we’re trying to expand people’s minds, both in the country and visitors.

(00:24:57.5)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Yeah, that’s exactly what we intend to do and we’ve talked about food, but this actually, it all started too with the focus on Mexican distilled spirits and fermented drinks, and we try to have a great selection of artisanal mescals, of craft beer. We know what Mexican craft beer can achieve because we’re famous for all those brands that you have in mind right now, but there’s really a lot of enthusiasm for making much better beer, much better spirits, specialty wine right now, it’s becoming much more popular in Mexico. We’ve eradicated all of the mistakes that we had before due to our _____ (00:25:40.8) in Baja California.

(00:25:43.1)
Nicholas Gilman:
And our political history in which during the Spanish Colonial era, wine growing, other than for clerical reasons, was banned, so we didn’t have a wine industry here to speak of until the past 20 or 30 years. In Baja California on the coast it’s really exploded. It’s amazing what they’re producing, and even in some areas of the interior of the country, and your bar features everything Mexican. Is that true?

(00:26:12.1)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Exactly. All of the labels of wine are Mexican, so everything that you pick should be a boutique wine, so no big industrialized wine either, not even if it’s Mexican.

(00:26:23.6)
Harry Hawk:
Fantastic. I want to pause a little bit about talking about the liquor and the wine because I want to do a separate little recording about that, but it’s very important that we mentioned it now because it is part of what this restaurant is and what you offer. Again, you’ve given me a beer earlier that was absolutely fantastic. Could you mention what beer that was, by the way?

(00:26:42.6)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Oh, you had a Double IPA from Ensenada called _____ (00:26:47.4) Brewery.

(00:26:50.1)
Harry Hawk:
All right, fantastic, highly recommended. Now putting the alcohol aside, we’ll come back to it. It was important for me to make sure we mention it because it is part of what you do here. Again, if I came in, if I’m in Mexico City, if I’m lucky enough to be here, I’m coming in to Limosneros for lunch or dinner. How should I think about your menu? What should I look at? How should I think about it?

(00:27:10.2)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Well at first you’d be confused, but that’s what we intended it to. The thing is, we don’t have a really big menu. We try to replace dishes every time that we change it year by year. There’s entries that are fresh, like fresh fish _____ (00:27:24.8) from Mexico, from Ensenada, then you can get some insects to see if you like them because I like to tell my clientele that if you don’t like them here, you don’t like them elsewhere.

(00:27:34.5)
Nicholas Gilman:
That’s true.

(00:27:35.4)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
And then some protein. We have organic meats, we have fish, we have octopus, and then the seasonal menus, and that would be like a complete tryout for the…

(00:27:43.5)
Harry Hawk:
Is there one thing I should not miss?

(00:27:44.6)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
If you’re adventurous enough, the cocopaches you shouldn’t miss, or the escamoles.

(00:27:48.9)
Nicholas Gilman:
But there’s also a tasting menu for people who can’t make up their minds. You always have what you call degustacion, is that right?

(00:27:56.5)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
Yes.

(00:27:57.0)
Nicholas Gilman:
That’s how many courses, six?

(00:27:59.1)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
The chef’s tasting menu.

(00:28:00.2)
Nicholas Gilman:
The chef’s tasting menu.

(00:28:01.5)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
It changes every month, and it’s six course plus the petit fours can be paired, or you can have the taco tasting menu which is also six and it can also be paired with, not with wine, but with mescals and craft beer, so yeah, it’s a different…

(00:28:15.4)
Nicholas Gilman:
But the most important thing is to come with an open mind and try new ingredients, new flavors.

(00:28:21.4)
Harry Hawk:
We’re about to come to an end of this recording, but we’re going to be right back immediately and just talk a little bit about tequila and mescals. So if you’re listening to this now, look for the link in the show notes and we’ll have a bunch of other things, but if you could tell us where we are, the address, how to find it, all of the things that people might want to know.

(00:28:39.5)
Juan Pablo Ballesteros:
So we are located in the heart of downtown Mexico City, the street name’s Allende, the number’s three, and we are located a few steps from Tacuba Street. We are really close to Belles Artes, fine arts palace, and an emblematic building of the city, very beautiful one too, and you can locate us in the number 55.21.55.76. The Twitter, it’s @limosnerosmx, our Facebook page is Limosneros, the webpage is limosneros.com.mx.

(00:29:12.2)
Nicholas Gilman:
And you can read my review at goodfoofmexicocity.com, just look for Limosneros, www.goodfoodmexicocity.com.

(00:29:21.5)
Harry Hawk:
This is Harry Hawk and this has been Talking About Everything. I hope everybody has a great day. Bye-bye.

(00:29:28.1)
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My name is Chuck Fresh and I’m being paid to thank you for listening to Talking About Everything with Harry Hawk. Harry wants to hear from you on Twitter @hhawk or harryhawk@gmail.com.

(00:29:43.3)
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(00:30:19.9)
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